Friday, November 9, 2007

A Bird Stole my Lunch and Kelly the Boozer

The next day, Ben and I head out on safari. Not too much to say about it really. It's fun, we see hundereds of zebras, water buffalo, hippos, 2 cheetahs (the highlight), elephants fighting and a mom cuddling a baby elephant. At one point, we're eating lunch on the grass and these birds keep swooping down. Ben looks really annoyed and says "If one more bird dives at me.." and I say "ooh, you'll what Ben? What are you going to do to the birds?" and laugh. Ben looks up and says "eat in the van" and just as he says "van" I feel talons and hear flapping and then my sandwich is flying off in the distance. These old men, fully geared out are staring at me in disbelief. Then they kind of laugh and look shocked. As I stand I bow and say "and on that note, I retire to our vehicle. Excuse me gentlemen" and they think that is hilarious. While I'm eating the rest of my lunch and mourning the loss of my delicious carrot and cheese sandwich, I overhear them recounting the tale to their lady friend. Complete with wild gesticulations. I smile and think that it's sort of cool that I am now part of their African adventure tales.




After spending so much time in "real" Africa (ie a tent in the middle of nowhere) this seems artificial and touristy to me. At our camp there are large groups of very loud, overweight people and it makes Ben and I twitch to have to listen to them carry on during dinner. Whenever I hear someone pathetically butcher the swahili language in an obnoxious, mocking way, I want to walk over and punch them in the mouth and call them a stupid Mzungu. Someone ignorantly says they want a shirt made that says "I survived safari" and I don't know how I manage to last the entire 3 days without punching anyone.

Ben and I look like 2 people who have just walked out of the wilderness. Our hair sticks out, our clothes are filthy and we have raccoon sunburns and blistered lips. We look like we've been to hell and back. I think "yeah I survived safari, how about a shirt that says I survived a relaxing vacation, moron." Ben laughs and says I'm so harsh, but I mean really, the camp has sit down flush toilets and running water. And you spend all day in a jeep. That's like effin' club med out here. And all of these people in the most ridiculous safari garb you could ever find. Once again, sitting in a jeep. Not much required. Like us on Kili, saw so many people take the fall who were far, far more geared to the hilt than we were. It's all from within, man. Haha. I still think that's great, "I survived safari" slays me.



When our safari is over, we return to the YMCA and shower. Carly stayed in a really swank hotel while we were gone and by the time we go to meet her, its 7:40pm. She isn't in her room. We go to Bamboo and see if she's there. No dice. Ben is worrying a lot about missing her because she bought us plane tickets to Zanzibar and we're supposed to fly out tomorrow. We decide to grab dinner and swing by her place after. We leave her a note and head to Pepe's. Pepe's is that place that has the best food in all of Tanzania. It's true. We become exceptional connoisseurs of African cuisine during our travels and no place ever comes close to the assortment of delicacies served here. If I ever write a guidebook, Pepe's will be held in high regards on the recommendations list for sure. We gorge ourselves as usual and drink red wine. It's great because we haven't been able to drink while we were on the acetazolamide. We go back to Carly's hotel and throw ourselves onto her giant bed. We watch some of "Bewitched" the movie on her TV, until we all agree that it was the largest mistake of Will Farrel's career and actually painful to watch.



Ben and I go back and pack. We are all go, go, go. We haven't stopped to relax in weeks. The next morning we wake to the alarm at 4:30am. Our shuttle to the airport leaves at 6am. We throw things into our bags haphazardly at the last minute. I am convinced that I can minimize my stuff and roll up my duffel bag as carry on. Ben tosses me our 26 of Capt. Morgan's and I throw it in the bag. As I try to leave the room, I realize that my backpack is too big to get through the door. I get stuck. I drop my duffel bag and back up. Ben rescues me and opens the other door. I step into the hall and slip and almost fall on my ass on the cement and say "watch out, there's a puddle of wat-" and before I can finish, I realize what it is. It's rum. I drop to my knees and unlock the bag in a panic. Inside is broken glass and everything is saturated with rum. I say "shit shit shit" and frantically pull things out of the bag. Camera case is soaked, all my kangas are soaked. This will never make carry on now. We mop up with towels and then throw them in the garbage. Ben is chomping at the bit to get going and we have no time to spare. I do up the bag, throw my camera around my neck to tend to later and we leave.

Ben leaves me in the dust and I curse the whole way. Carly is standing outside the bus, making them wait for us. She says "I hate you guys" and then "oh God, you reek." I do reek. I smell like one of those booze soaked slot machine women. It is not a good smell at all. I have rum soaked into my arms and legs, on my sandals and saturated into my camera case. I waddle up with my booze soaked duffel and get on the bus. I tell Carly it's the camera case and she puts a hand on my shoulder, looks me square in the eye and says "no, it's your whole body." Yeah, she's right. It is. Every time someone coughs or rubs their face, I am certain it's because of the awful smell emanating from my vicinity. I ride the entire way with my head in my hands, praying that they even let me on the plane. I hope that the chaos and disorganization that was the Nairobi airport is present and active here in the Tanzanian airline industry.We go through the checks and Carly keeps saying "oh and don't let Kelly carry that, she's wasted" and "Kelly can't find her passport cuz she's drunk." I vow that if they kick me off the plane, I am hanging onto her pantleg and so help me God, she is coming with me. And they let us on the plane. That is a fine example of how shitty the process is for airline checks. No one says anything to me. Even with Carly's wisecracks, my stench and Ben's look of embarrassment, we are not given any trouble.

Carly ends up on the same plane as us! She is flying to DAR though, to catch her flight home. When we land in Zanzibar, we all hug and she says "I'll never let go!" and we laugh but it's so sad. She says "don't look back" and it's a really sad feeling, to lose another group member. Ben has been freaking out because we have no plan. We kept meaning to book a place to stay, but as we step off the plane, into the humid, sticky air, we got nothin'. We collect our bags and sit on the ground inside the airport. He looks at me like "what do we do now?" and I shrug. We open the guidebook. I see a sign on the wall that is an advert. for "Paradise Beach Bungalows in Nungwi Village". Just as I catch sight of that, Ben squints into the book and says "Hey, what about a place called Nungwi village?" and it's meant to be. We nod at each other and decide to get a cab. After all, what better place than paradise to spend our last days in the motherland?